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Sofortbild vs kightroom classic
Sofortbild vs kightroom classic











  1. Sofortbild vs kightroom classic manual#
  2. Sofortbild vs kightroom classic iso#

Put the subject where you want it to be when the picture is taken, like the strawberry in the middle of the bowl, and set the focus. What you want to do is to set an exposure that, with your chosen shutter speed, results in an almost completely black image.Īnother thing that you must do before turning the lights off is setting your focus. It wasn’t totally black, but I could barely see the contours of objects with my eyes, so I had to turn the lights on in order to set everything up, then turn them off again before shooting. I did the above shot during the day, but closed all the windows’ shutters and all the doors of the room. Basically, with a shutter speed on the order of seconds, you will be forced to operate in the dark.

sofortbild vs kightroom classic

Your aperture, however, cannot be too small, because this will require having a more powerful flash from the speedlight.

Sofortbild vs kightroom classic iso#

To avoid this effect, you can use a low ISO combined with a small aperture. What you want to avoid, during this time, is letting the sensor of your camera capture enough ambient light that it starts being comparable to the exposure given by the flash, therefore “polluting” your image with the contribution from the ambient. This brings us to realizing that this technique requires the camera shutter to be open for a relatively long time, possibly a few seconds. Even with the latter, you will still need a second or more to coordinate everything. Now, the time that it takes you to move away from the camera, or drop the remote release, place the subject at the starting position, if necessary, start its motion, trigger the flash, and close the shutter, having picked up the remote release again, can be on the order of a few seconds, unless you have three hands or an assistant. Review the image, declare victory or try again.When the strawberry hits the surface of the milk, trigger the flash.Drop the strawberry or otherwise start the motion of your subject.With this in mind, our sequence of events becomes: With a bit of practice, you can become very precise and your timing can get pretty repeatable. Fortunately, it turns out that, for subjects that move relatively slow, like the strawberry in the picture above, manually triggering the flash at the right moment is easier than it might seem. It would definitely be possible to use light- or sound-activated triggers for this, but I have none at my disposal. This, however, leaves us with the issue of timing the very short burst of flash with the interesting moment in the trajectory of our projectile. This makes for stopping pretty fast moving objects.

Sofortbild vs kightroom classic manual#

For my Nikon SB-900 in manual mode, flash duration is 1/880s at full power and goes up to 1/38,500s at 1/128 output. The effective duration is actually a function of the power that is required from the speedlight: the lower the power, the shorter the burst. You might not be aware of the fact that the duration of the flash emitted by most speedlights can be very short. So, if we can’t leave the shutter open for such a small interval, we will keep it open for much longer and use a short burst of flash light to freeze the motion of the subject. If you don’t have motion blur, you get blur due to lack of focus and noise reduction. A large aperture might not give you enough depth of field, and high ISO means noise.

sofortbild vs kightroom classic

Even if your subject isn’t very fast, in order to get capture enough light for a good exposure, at 1/4,000s you must use a very large aperture, a high ISO, and have a very powerful source of continuous light.

sofortbild vs kightroom classic

While this is a respectable speed, it can still introduce motion blur for subjects that move very fast (think bullet smashing through a lightbulb). In practice, though, this is harder than it sounds.įor one thing, the fastest shutter speed that you can select on a typical camera is between 1/4,000s and 1/8,000s. You might wonder why a speedlight is needed and ask yourself why you can’t get the same results by using a very fast shutter speed. High speed photography can be fun, but a badly lit subject is a badly lit subject, even if frozen at 1/10,000s.

sofortbild vs kightroom classic

  • Possibly, some light modifiers, diffusers, white cards, anything that is necessary to light your subject the way you want it to be lit.
  • A speedlight whose power can be set manually.
  • A remote release for the camera is recommended, but not absolutely necessary.
  • You don’t need a fancy, carbon-fibre tripod with an expensive head, just one that won’t sag after you tighten it. I wonder how they managed in the old days. Digital is the king here: you will be doing lots of trials and errors and wouldn’t want to waste a lot of film.













    Sofortbild vs kightroom classic